Start by mapping out where your brows should start and end. For the start of the sprouts, take your tweezers, pinch the ends together, and lay it against the bridge of your nose. That edge is where the first sprout should, well, sprout. Healy says he will trim anything that crosses over that Tweezer line, but if you’re not confident with your snipping, just make sure the area between your brows is clean (it’s much better to have them too close together than too far apart). Then hold your tweezers horizontally to make sure your brows are level—sometimes one is more fluffy than the other. If that’s the case, trim a few hairs at a downward angle.
Since you want the fluffiness in the front, use a light hand when it comes to the sprouts. Just try to get them level, and then put the tweezers and trimmers down—if the fronts look symmetrical, you have way more leeway with the arch and tails.
For the lifted look, where your brows end is key. “The tail is on a downward angle; longer means lower,” says Healy. “So the longer the tail is, it’s just going to drag your brow down; it’s like the opposite of lift. So the minute you taper that tail and bring it up, you get more lift.” Lay your tweezers from your nostril to the outer corner of your eye, and where it lands is where things should start to taper off. Tweeze any obvious strays past this point.
Your arch should be about two thirds of the way out, not directly in the center. Once you find where it is, tweeze any obvious strays below it, and get it as clean as you feel comfortable with. I personally hate tweezing my brows and don’t mind a bit of a messier look, so I got rid of only the long ones, but what you do here is really up to you. Healy says to stick to tweezing only, as waxing or threading will look too crisp and unnatural. There should be a clear shape but still a bit of a natural, effortless feel.
Step 2: Fill.
The bulk of the work is in the shaping, so unless you have sparser brows, filling in should be a breeze. Healy prefers powders to pencils since they have a lighter feel, and swears by an angled brush for application. After swirling your brush in the powder, start with either your arches or the tails—you don’t want to start in the front since your first stroke will deposit the most product.
To get that lift, you want to define the peak where your arch and your tails meet. Use the angle of your brush to find that tiny triangle, and use tiny strokes up and down to outline it. Then brush your hairs down and fill in the arch and tails, before brushing them back up to blend. Make sure you’re filling in any gaps on the tails so they feel complete without going outside the lines. Brush it through with a spoolie to soften. You want to focus the color on the outer two thirds, so finish off by taking whatever is on your brush and doing a few short strokes in the front to add some faux fluff.
Step 3: Highlight.
I always think of brow highlighter as a special-occasion thing, but after chatting with Healy, I will be making it a part of my daily routine. Take a matte highlighter like Healy’s High Rise, and dab it just under your arch and tails, being sure to blend. It’s subtle, but it will really give you that “pop” and the lift that makes geolift brows so special. “This allows you to leave those few stray hairs under the arch, but still get lift,” says Healy. “People always say they want thick, full brows but with an arch, and this allows you to get that.”
Step 4: Set.
If you want, go in with a clear brow gel to set all the work you just did. Just take your spoolie, and brush up and over to get the fullness, while brushing your sprouts at the front directly up. Done!
All in all, I’m super into my final results. I hate tweezing at home, so I would go to a pro like Healy for an in-depth shaping, but I think I managed okay by just grabbing the most errant hairs and tapering the ends. Basically I’m left with an enhanced version of my natural brows that’s a little crisper and adds some nice shape to my round face. I found the highlighter made a huge difference and gave me that really snatched look, so I’ll definitely be using that daily. Looks like I’m leaving my boy brows behind for good.
Bella Cacciatore is the beauty associate at Glamour. Follow her on Instagram @bellacacciatore_.