Everyone has their favorite skin-care step. For me, it’s all about exfoliation, which recently led me down a rabbit hole of reviews for the PMD Microderm Device. Since the at-home tool came out nearly 20 years ago, it’s earned its spot among the skin care hall of fame for its ability to deliver a healthier, dewier, and softer complexion. 

I’ve had my fun with exfoliating superstars like Dr. Dennis Gross’s Peel Pads and Naturopathica’s Cherry Enzyme Peel to alleviate breakouts and textured skin. But a tool that basically vacuums your skin to suck away clogged pores and dead cells? It brings the joy of exfoliating to an entirely new and incredibly satisfying level.

How does the PMD Microderm Device work?

For those unfamiliar with microdermabrasion, here’s the gist: It’s a treatment that buffs out dead cells and product build-up from the outermost layer of your skin with the use of aluminum oxide crystals. Customarily it’s done by an esthetician or dermatologist, but at-home tools like the PMD Personal Microderm are able to mimic the results of pro treatments with extended use. The Microderm in particular uses spinning disc technology and vacuum suction to tackle a variety of skin concerns like texture, fine lines, and blemishes—scars included.

I’ll be the first to say that acne, in its most literal sense, is not my biggest skin concern, yet texture is. So what better time than quarantine to address the tiny sebum filled bumps populating my cheeks and keratosis pilaris along my arms? Upon opening the device’s packaging, the size initially struck me. For a microdermabrasion device comparable to in-office results, I was expecting something much, much bigger (and heavier). It’s surprisingly lightweight and the plug-in power cord included is longer than my straightener’s, which makes makes it an easy reach for that inconveniently placed bottom corner outlet in your bathroom (we all have it). I say bathroom because over the sink is an ideal location for using this thing, since dead skin is being shed, sucked, and sometimes, dropped—it’s a tip you’ll thank me for later. 

How do you use the PMD Microderm Device?

Before I get into the good stuff (i.e., the surprisingly smooth and instantaneous results I got after a few trial runs), I urge you to read the directions for this device—carefully—and follow that up by watching the how-to video from the brand, below. Admittedly, I didn’t do either my first go-around (call it cockiness), resulting in mediocre results and an irritated skin barrier. To start, PMD recommends plugging in the white training disk and practice upward swaying motions along your arm or leg. This way, you’ll get a (literal) feel for the suction and grainy nature of each disk, even the white practice one. 

Once you’ve got the hang of it, it’s time to choose your disk intensity. There are six discs included in the Classic version of this device, which are all conveniently color-coded. Three discs are for body treatments and three for your face—ranging from very sensitive to very intense. (If you’re looking for a more intense treatment, I’d recommend the Pro version or the newest, Elite Pro). The choice is yours, but my advice no matter the version is to start with the very sensitive and work your way up. You can always exfoliate more, but you can’t reverse any sloughing that’s been done.

After snapping in your disc of choice, screw the facial cap on, and it’s ready to go. 

As the tutorial video from the brand demonstrates, pulling your skin taut will help alleviate added stress and irritation, making the vacuum less abrasive as you glide it from the center of your face out to your hairline. Doing this simple step was one I missed during my trial run, resulting in not-so-cute red lines along my face (the suction is real, people!).

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Let’s start with the obvious: The NuFace Mini is not exactly a new device. Sure, I’d heard of it and read all the glowing NuFace reviews on the internet. But I’m one of those people who tries something cool a few times and then eventually buries it in the graveyard under my sink, where it enters the afterlife alongside a facial cleansing brush, five body brushes, a tooth-whitening system, a dermaroller, and all of their respective cords.

Under lockdown, though, skin-care devices have had something of a revival. Have you heard of that one study that found people would rather give themselves electric shocks than be left alone with their thoughts? I’ve been feeling like that, but for my face. And while I’m not saying that I can’t sit still for 20 minutes, it has been a long five months. What else do I have to do besides electrocute myself to perfection?

How does NuFace work?

Fortunately, the NuFace doesn’t actually feel like an electric shock. Rather, it uses gentle microcurrent technology to offer legitimate skin benefits. “Microcurrent units stimulate muscles and tighten skin, giving a lifted effect to brows, eyes, jawline, cheeks, and neck,” says Francesca Fusco, M.D., an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai in New York City, who’s not affiliated with the brand. “It stimulates collagen, circulation, and wound healing.”

The initial investment is large—at $299, it’s not exactly cheap. However, when you consider the payoff if you actually use it versus procedures down the road (injectables, lasers, that sort of thing), the cost doesn’t seem so steep. However, you’ll also need a NuFace gel primer to make it worthwhile—more on that later—so keep that in mind.

Back to the NuFace. I had some specific goals in mind: I wanted to keep my forehead smooth, tighten my jawline, and lift my cheeks enough that my smile lines disappeared. That’s a tall order for a noninvasive skin-care device—and one that is supposedly painless, no less. Still, when I was first learning how to use NuFace, I was pretty skittish about the potential discomfort, as I’d read about heat and tingling in some of the NuFace reviews I’d come across. And since I once passed out at the sound of a nurse unwrapping an IV…let’s just say my pain threshold is very low.

How do you use the NuFace?

The first few times I tried it, I followed the instructions for NuFace found on the included pamphlet to the letter: three glides on one side of my neck three times, three glides on one cheek three times, three swipes up one side of my forehead three times—then repeat it all on the other side of your face. Each swipe lasts a few seconds and ends in an automated beep.

Every time I moved the NuFace up my forehead, I could feel a few hairs on my head prickling a little bit. It didn’t hurt so much as feel weird, but it made me nervous enough that I switched it to its lowest setting (out of low, medium, and high). I may be a baby, but I’d at least like to look the part.

A few nights into my routine, I was able to snag a NuFace tutorial from esthetician and NuFace cofounder Tera Peterson, who did the treatment along with me over Zoom. First, she instructed me to apply the gel primer to one area at a time (as I enthusiastically slathered it onto my whole face on the other side of screen). The gel primer is necessary for the treatment, as it transfers the microcurrents from the NuFace to your face. “Polymers are needed to direct the current directly to the muscles,” she said. “Just because it looks like aloe vera does not mean aloe vera is going to conduct your microcurrent.”